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How Cut and Glue PVC CUTTING Cutting PVC Pipe is simple when you follow these proven procedures. 1. Cut the longest pieces first. That way, you’ll be able to use more of the pipe. 2. Mark length to be cut with a pencil 3 Cut with a standard PVC pipe cutter. You can use the simple ratchet-style cutter available at most hardware stores, Home Depot, Lowe's, Harbor Freight, etc. 4. Line up the pencil mark with the pipe cutter blade, then cut on the inside edge of your mark. Option: You can also cut the pipe with a hack saw. To make sure your cut is straight, place the pipe into a wood or plastic miter box. Then set a piece of scrap wood between the pipe and miter box to brace it securely. Cut on the inside edge of your pencil mark. NOTE: If you cut pipe with power equipment, wear a proper dust mask or respirator to protect against particulate dust. Then, remove any burrs with a medium metal file or run a razor knife around the cut. (Be Careful Not to Cut Yourself!) Use a round "rat-tail" file for the inside of the pipe, if needed. If you’re thinking about cutting several of the same length of pipe, consider building my PVC Pipe Cutting Jig. It can be made with scrap wood and will save you a lot of time. In addition, you’ll be assured of the exact same cut each time. The jig plan calls for a power miter saw. However, it can be altered to incorporate a miter box so you can use your hack saw. How to Cut Large
GLUING When building more complex projects, sometimes in our haste we glue fittings that end up facing the wrong direction. Of course, this leads to ruined fittings, delays and, essentially, having to start over. It happens and it’s frustrating. So here's how I solved the problem. 1. After cutting the lengths of pipe, "dry fit" sections of your project as you progress. Make sure the lengths are correct and the fittings are facing the right way. Use a carpenter's square to guide you, if need be. TIP: If you find an inserted pipe stubborn to remove, try using a vice-grip on the pipe. Also, I use the jig in the photo below. Simply slip the pipe and fitting onto a wooden dowel, grip the pipe and give it a downward whack or two. The fitting will pop right off.
2. When you’re certain the section you're working on is correct then, using a yellow marking pencil, draw a line an inch, or so, along the pipe up and over the fitting. (The photo shows a regular pencil because the yellow didn't show up well.)
3. Swab both the inside of the PVC fitting and the outside of the pipe with clear primer. The primer softens the PVC and sets it up for the glue. Then immediately apply a light amount of glue to the fitting and pipe, insert the pipe into the fitting, twist slightly and line up the yellow markings. PVC glue dries fast, so you'll have to be quick. Hold it together for a few seconds. Then, with an old white rag, wipe off any excess glue immediately, which will also remove the yellow line. TIP: The gluing procedure I just mentioned is the correct way to fasten pipe to fitting. However, that said, I apply glue to the inside the fitting only. Use your own judgment, but in 25+ years none of my projects have ever come apart. Applying glue to both parts is, to me, overkill and wastes glue. In #3 above I mentioned that I swab the inside of the fitting. Why? Because when you insert the pipe, most of the excess glue flows to the inside of the fitting. If you swabbed the end of the pipe instead, the glue would ooze outwards toward your hands. My way is a bit neater and cleaner. 4. Normally, PVC pipe slides into the fittings easily. For those time when you're not certain if the pipe's pushed in all the way, quickly and gently tap the opposite end of the pipe with a dead-blow hammer or rubber mallet. Work in Sections 5. For example, when building a chair I put together the left side first then the right side. Next, I secure the connecting lengths of pipe. 6. If, when constructing a PVC chair, you use sling material for the back and seat, be careful NOT to cement one side of the project until AFTER you've attached the material to the frame. While my chair plans don’t call for slings, you may run across plans that do. But What if You Don't Ahhhh, my friend... glad you asked. For some projects (example, doll furniture) applying one tiny spot of super glue to the inside of the fitting will do just fine. I don’t recommend it, however, for projects that will get heavy use. Also, I've had good luck with Elmer's ProBond and Elmer's Ultimate glue. This glue gives you plenty of time (actually, up to 4 hours) to adjust your project before it hardens. So far, it's held up quite well. Again, you don't want to use it for heavy-use projects like swing-sets, chairs, and so on. TIP: test super glue and Elmer’s to be certain they’ll work for your project. |
