How Cut and
Glue PVC Pipe
by Brooks Owen
How to Cut PVC Pipe
PVC Pipe Cutter,
• Miter Box (optional)
1. Always cut the longest
pieces first. That way, you’ll be able to use more of the
2. Mark the length to be cut
with a pencil.
3. Cut with a standard PVC pipe cutter. The easiest to use is a simple ratchet-style
cutter available at most hardware stores.
4. Line up the pencil
mark with the pipe cutter blade, then cut on the inside edge of your mark.
Option: You can also cut the
pipe with a hack saw. To make a straight cut, place the
pipe into a miter box. Then wedge a piece of scrap wood
between the pipe and the side of the miter box to brace it
securely. Cut on the inside edge of your pencil mark.
Note: When cutting plastic pipe
with a power miter saw, wear protective eye-wear and a
proper dust mask or respirator to protect against
Then, remove any burrs with a
medium flat file or 80 to 100-grit sandpaper. Use a
rat-tail file for the inside of the pipe, if needed.
If you’re thinking about
cutting several of the same length of pipe, consider
building my PVC Pipe Cutting Jig. It can be made with scrap wood and will
save you a lot of time. In addition, you’ll be assured
of the exact same cut each time. The jig plan calls for
using a power miter saw. However, it can be altered to
incorporate a miter box so you can use your hack saw.
How to Cut Large
Diameter PVC Pipe
How to Glue PVC Pipe
• Clear PVC Cement, or
• Polyurethane Glue
• PVC Primer
• Yellow Marking Pencil
First, let me say this about
that. "Gluing" is not the proper term. Properly said, you
use cement to "solvent weld PVC pipe." But most of us
aren't plumbers. We don't care what "proper" is. Gluing is
easier. We know what it means.
When building PVC projects,
sometimes in haste we glue fittings that end up facing
the wrong direction. Of course, this leads to ruined
fittings, delays and, essentially, having to start over.
It happens and it’s frustrating. So here's how I solved
1. After cutting the lengths of
pipe, "dry-fit" sections of your project as you progress.
Make sure the lengths are correct and the fittings are
facing the proper way. Use a carpenter’s square to guide
you, if need be.
Tip: If you find an inserted
pipe stubborn to remove, attach a vice-grip on the pipe
with the PVC fitting clamped in a bench vice, then
separate by twisting. Or, use two vice-grips.
Also, I use the jig in the
photo below. Simply slip the pipe and fitting onto a
wooden dowel, grip the pipe and give it a downward whack
or two. The fitting will pop right off.
When you’re certain the section you’re working on is
correct then, using a yellow marking pencil, draw a line
an inch, or so, along the pipe up and over each fitting.
This serves as an easy alignment guide. Now take the
section apart and lay out the pipe and fittings to prepare
for gluing. (The photo shows a regular pencil because the
yellow didn't photo well.)
3. Swab a light
amount of glue to both the fitting and pipe, insert the
pipe into the fitting, twist slightly and line up the
yellow markings. PVC glue, also called cement, dries
fast so you’ll have to be quick. Hold it together for a
few seconds. Then wipe off any excess glue immediately
with an old rag, which will also remove the yellow line.
(See Note below.)
Note: since these are not
plumbing projects, I personally feel you do not have to
use PVC primer.
Tip: The gluing procedure I
just mentioned is the proper way to fasten pipe to
fitting. However, that said, I apply glue to the inside
the fitting only. In 30 years none of my PVC projects have
ever come apart. Applying glue to both parts is, to me,
overkill and wastes glue. Again, use your own judgment.
I mentioned that I swab
the inside of the fitting only. Why? Because
when you insert the pipe most of the glue flows to the
inside. If you swab the pipe instead, the glue would
ooze outwards toward your hands. My way is neater and
4. Normally, the pipe slides
into the fittings easily. For those time when you’re not
certain if the pipe has seated against the fitting wall,
quickly and gently tap the opposite end of the pipe with a
dead-blow hammer or wooden mallet.
5. Work in sections. For
example, when building a chair I assemble the left side
first then the right side. Finally, I secure the
connecting lengths of pipe to both sides.
6. If, when making a PVC
chair, you use sling material for the back and seat, be
careful not to glue one side of the project until
after you’ve attached the material to the frame. Then
fasten the unglued side with sheet metal screws.
But what if you don’t want to
use PVC glue? For some projects (example, doll furniture)
applying one tiny spot of super glue to the inside of the
fitting will do just fine. I don’t recommend it, however,
for projects that will get heavy use.
Also, I’ve had good luck with
polyurethane glues, which can give you plenty of time (up
to 4 hours) to adjust your project before it cures. So
far, the two projects for gardening I’ve tested have held
up well. Again, you don’t want to use it for heavy-use
projects like swing-sets, chairs, and so on.
By following these tips, you'll
be able to cut and glue your PVC projects just like a pro!
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