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How Cut and Glue PVC Pipe by Brooks Owen Measuring and Cutting Tools Needed PVC Pipe Cutter, or Hacksaw Sandpaper Tape measure Pencil Miter Box (optional) Directions 1. Always cut the longest pieces first. That way, you’ll be able to use more of the pipe. 2. Mark the length to be cut with a pencil. 3. Cut with a standard PVC pipe cutter. The easiest to use is a simple ratchet-style cutter available at most hardware stores. 4. Line up the pencil mark with the pipe cutter blade, then cut on the inside edge of your mark. Option: You can also cut the pipe with a hack saw. To make a straight cut, place the pipe into a miter box. Then wedge a piece of scrap wood between the pipe and the side of the miter box to brace it securely. Cut on the inside edge of your pencil mark. Note: When cutting plastic pipe with a power miter saw, wear a proper dust mask or respirator to protect against particulate dust. Then, remove any burrs with a medium flat file or rough sandpaper. Use a rat-tail file for the inside of the pipe, if needed. If you’re thinking about cutting several of the same length of pipe, consider building my PVC Pipe Cutting Jig. It can be made with scrap wood and will save you a lot of time. In addition, you’ll be assured of the exact same cut each time. The jig plan calls for a power miter saw. However, it can be altered to incorporate a miter box so you can use your hack saw. How to Cut Large
Gluing PVC Pipe
Directions First, let me say this about that. "Gluing" is not the proper term. Properly said, you use cement to "solvent weld PVC pipe." But most of us aren't plumbers. We don't care what "proper" is. Gluing is easier. We know what it means. OK, onward. When building PVC projects, sometimes in haste we glue fittings that end up facing the wrong direction. Of course, this leads to ruined fittings, delays and, essentially, having to start over. It happens and it’s frustrating. So here's how I solved the problem. 1. After cutting the lengths of pipe, "dry-fit" sections of your project as you progress. Make sure the lengths are correct and the fittings are facing the proper way. Use a carpenter’s square to guide you, if need be. Tip: If you find an inserted pipe stubborn to remove, attach a vice-grip on the pipe with the PVC fitting clamped in a bench vice, then separate by twisting. Or, use two vice-grips. Also, I use the jig in the photo below. Simply slip the pipe and fitting onto a wooden dowel, grip the pipe and give it a downward whack or two. The fitting will pop right off.
2. When you’re certain the section you’re working on is correct then, using a yellow marking pencil, draw a line an inch, or so, along the pipe up and over each fitting. This serves as an easy alignment guide. Now take the section apart and lay out the pipe and fittings to prepare for gluing. (The photo shows a regular pencil because the yellow didn't show up well.)
3. Swab a light amount of glue to both the fitting and pipe, insert the pipe into the fitting, twist slightly and line up the yellow markings. PVC glue (also called cement) dries fast, so you’ll have to be quick. Hold it together for a few seconds. Then wipe off any excess glue immediately with an old rag, which will also remove the yellow line. By the way, since these are not plumbing projects, you do not have to use PVC primer. Tip: The gluing procedure I just mentioned is the proper way to fasten pipe to fitting. However, that said, I apply glue to the inside the fitting only. Use your own judgment, but in 25+ years none of my PVC projects have ever come apart. Applying glue to both parts is, to me, overkill and wastes glue. I mentioned that I swab the inside of the fitting only. Why? Because when you insert the pipe most of the glue flows to the inside. If you swab the pipe instead, the glue would ooze outwards toward your hands. My way is neater and cleaner. 4. Normally, the pipe slides into the fittings easily. For those time when you’re not certain if the pipe has seated against the fitting wall, quickly and gently tap the opposite end of the pipe with a dead-blow hammer or wooden mallet. 5. Work in sections. For example, when building a chair I assemble the left side first then the right side. Finally, I secure the connecting lengths of pipe to both sides. 6. If, when making a PVC chair, you use sling material for the back and seat, be careful not to glue one side of the project until after you’ve attached the material to the frame. But what if you don’t want to use PVC glue? For some projects (example, doll furniture) applying one tiny spot of super glue to the inside of the fitting will do just fine. I don’t recommend it, however, for projects that will get heavy use. Also, I’ve had good luck with polyurethane glues, which can give you plenty of time (up to 4 hours) to adjust your project before it cures. So far, the two projects for gardening I’ve tested have held up well. Again, you don’t want to use it for heavy-use projects like swing-sets, chairs, and so on.
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